Unworn clothes in wardrobes now almost as big a problem for circularity as items thrown directly into bins
New research by Reconomy, the international circular economy specialist, examining real-world barriers preventing circularity from scaling across the textiles sector, reveals that one of the primary problems is that the textiles industry is dominated by widespread overproduction and large volumes of low-cost, lower-quality products with low emotional durability.
This results in large amounts of unworn clothes sitting idle in wardrobes, reducing the perceived value of garments and discouraging care, repair and reuse. Ultimately, these clothes are likely to be discarded, contributing to the same waste problem as garments thrown directly into landfill.
The research highlights that efforts to implement circular solutions across the industry continue to run into multiple, system-wide hurdles, with many initiatives never moving beyond pilot phases. In addition to overproduction, progress is constrained by the absence of industry-wide parameters for circular design, resulting in inconsistent approaches as brands and retailers develop their own frameworks.
Meanwhile, scaling circular models remains difficult due to unsuitable infrastructure, poor data availability and lack of long-term financial investment. This is compounded by the textile recycling sector facing an unprecedented financial crisis amid global market challenges. There is also a lack of aligned regulation across different markets forcing international brands to navigate a complex patchwork of rules, particularly UK businesses.
The research was commissioned as global clothing and footwear consumption continues to surge to unprecedented levels, yet the lack of circularity is contributing to unsustainable levels of waste and carbon emissions. In 2024, an estimated 120 million metric tonnes of textile waste was generated globally, with around 80% landfilled or incinerated .
Reconomy and Sancroft
The research identifies eight concrete areas where action is needed:
- Creating a harmonised and aligned policy framework across different markets
- Providing access to robust, decision-grade data to support circular reporting and compliance
- Designing and scaling effective takeback and reuse schemes
- Expanding sortation and recycling capacity
- Building a clear business case for investment in circular infrastructure
- Establishing a consistent, data‑driven operating model for textile circularity across the ecosystem to define what good looks like
- Promoting collaborative, cross-industry approaches
- Support and empowering consumers to participate in circular systems
Hear from our leaders
While brands and retailers recognise this is a business-critical issue and want to accelerate circularity, too many structural barriers stand in the way of adopting solutions that work at scale.
We hope this research provides the industry with a better understanding of the barriers and what needs to change to help the sector move beyond pilots to viable circular systems that help the sector reduce waste, cut carbon emissions, while also lowering costs for businesses and strengthening profitability.
Reconomy